Saturday, August 19, 2006

Usuki and the Stone Buddhas


Ok, since in the last few entries you got a taste of the big cities here, this time here's a peek at more rural Japan. Mr. Lee and I, bored in Beppu one weekend, decided that a drive in the countryside was in order. When we went to the map to figure out where, I mentioned that I'd heard about some big-ass stone Buddhas that had been carved into a cliff somewhere, and LeeSean just happened to know they were in Usuki, a small town about 45 minutes south-east of Beppu, so off we went. It was a picture-perfect day in early spring through largely unspoiled countryside, so the drive was a treat.
We got there early and it was quiet. A river flowed gently past stands of tall bamboo, and nearby an orchard of plum trees blossomed as we made our way in. Inside, we found a whole gaggle - nay, a plethora of Buddhas, some big, some small, some worn and ancient, some in showroom condition, and one that bore a striking resemblance to an older Marlon Brando. If you read the coming article about the giant bronze Buddha too, I won't need to tell you that he's a bigger deal than Elvis over here. It was indeed impressive, especially as the golden morning light shone down through the surrounding bamboo forest. Some of these, if you can imagine, were 30 or 40 feet tall - not bad for a glorified kind of grass.
The overall effect, with the big Buddhas and the big bamboo, was to make one feel like an ant inside a very pretty ant-farm. I think it's healthy though, sometimes, to just let go of your ego and stand in awe of something greater than yourself. I find it's an experience more common in Japan than in other places. The Japanese certainly love monuments, and never shy away from monumental undertakings. You should see some of the casinos!

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